Cuxhaven
A city on the ocean; It’s like a dream come true in Germany. This city fulfills every sunbathers desire with a long sand beach and also a grassy knoll near the top of the peninsula where one can sit and watch the tide literally pour into the harbor.
Around the park and to the Castle
The pedestrian shopping area is quite close to the train station. At the front of the station, take a look at the map and head left on Bahnhofstraße down to Kaemmererplatz. There is a park off to the side of this open area with a large boat docked in the grass. From Kaemmererplatz, you can walk down the pedestrian street, through the old city and towards the castle. There is a lovely park surrounding the castle, but the castle itself was closed when I got there. Opening hours appear to always be before 4 p.m., so if the castle is on your agenda, be advised to get there earlier.
Boat trips, Sailor Knick-Knacks and a Bite to Eat
The harbor area is a genuinely unique thing for a German city. Closest to the train station is the area called Alte Liebe. This is where all the tourist boats depart. Tours available include 40-minute harbor tours, seal watching expeditions, a pirate ship excursion and then the longer trips out to Helgoland. The harbor tours seem to leave around 11 a.m. and again around 2 p.m. But please check the internet site for departure times. Again, the rule of thumb seems to be to arrive early, as nothing was leaving the harbor after I got there at 2:30 p.m.
Alte Liebe also has a strip with a few restaurants with outdoor seating. Enjoy the sun, the ocean, and a coffee or beer!
Beach!
From this area, you can walk to the left of the city along the waterfront, through the marshes, past a pond especially built for model ships, and to the grassy waterfront. The North Sea in this location has an extremely fast tide. I saw the whitewater approaching and about 15 minutes later; the water had completely covered the extended sandy area previously exposed. The water can only be reached by stairs in this location. Please be observant of the signs and flags displaying tidal conditions. This did not seem like a particular swim friendly area. However, there are many beach cabins available for rent on the grassy dunes and it is a perfect place to watch the freighters and enjoy the sun.
Progressing to the left and down the peninsula is a long sandy beach. There are also cabins available to rent here. This is a really windy area, so be prepared to be tired after a day of wind and sun. Don’t forget the sunscreen!
Water Tower
Back towards the train station; check out the little park with the water tower. The tower is quite large and can be easily seen from the surrounding area. The park is a nice place to spend a few last minutes before your train departs.
How to get there : From Bremen, take one of the regional trains to Bremerhaven and switch to a smaller train there. The ride is quite lovely, although the North West Bahn (NWB) conductor constantly blew the horn on the 45-minute ride from Bremerhaven to scare away the rampant cows on the tracks. No kidding. In total, the trip takes an hour and a half from Bremen. The connection in Bremerhaven is quick, so be aware that the right train is on the other side of the tracts and don’t be afraid to board.
Great things: The ocean! Water, wind and sun. You don’t need to be a Californian to appreciate the beach once in a while.
Date of visit: June 2, 2006
Cuxhaven website:www.cuxhaven.de
Smalltime tip to D. Graumann